I recently had a small problem with the fuse, which when the button bar was switched on, the fuse was always flown out, only the TV 60 inch 120 watt and the Playstation 4 per about 150 watt were plugged in… When I plugged the connector into one without a button I swapped it with more watts and this problem no longer occurred (old connector strip with 3500watt button, new without 3680watt button) Now I bought a PC with a 700 watt power supply. The PC runs in power mode at approx. 500-600 watts… The PC I didn't plug it into a multiple socket, but directly into the socket, but when I flipped the switch from the power supply, the fuse flew out again, even though the TV wasn't true… Now the question is how can I prevent the fuse from flying out so easily… If I imagine that she will fly out when I'm on the PC, it will be very strange to me… Hope you can help me
Not at all, the fuse is there for that!
You should rather consider why the fuse is flying - this is mostly due to a short circuit in the socket and there's a RISK OF FIRE!
If this happens more often, replace the socket or better get an electrician.
Please have the electrical system checked by a specialist IMMEDIATELY. Yes, it costs. But it will seem really cheap to you if you compare it to the fact that a possible cable fire will flare up your apartment.
The circuit with the fuse does not only have a socket, you have to determine what is still connected to this circuit. You also have to write how many amps the fuse is designed for.
Usual 10A = 2300W
Or 16A = 3680W
A cable break in the line path between the protective contact socket and the associated circuit breaker is likely.
Get an electrician to find and fix the bug! There's a risk of fire.
I live in a rented apartment. So I have to tell the landlord
Don't wait too. It may be that a wire is scorched. In the worst case, it glows in the wall. I would even remove the fuse before you go to sleep. And TRY. If it smells pungent, then go immediately.
Can't it just be a normal overload of the fuse?
Can't it be that it is a normal overcharge of the fuse?
Theoretically yes, in practice the devices tend not to use as much electricity. Maybe you want to get a flow meter. You put it in the socket and it tells you how much electricity a device needs. You should almost have it at home.
Yes.
Now you have to find out which loads are all connected to this circuit.
The wattage of your multiple connector does not matter that is only the maximum load limit of the multiple connector whereby the multiple connector should normally endure 3680 so that it can also be protected by the overload protection of the house or the multiple connector has its own overload protection.
If your computer is the only consumer that is connected to the power strip and is actually pulling 700 watts because of me, it doesn't matter whether the power strip can withstand 3000 or 3600 watts, only 700 watts of power are converted.
Most of the time, the energy balance in old electrical installations is bad. By this I mean that the circuits are not divided correctly and then there are too many electrical consumers on one circuit which e.g. Is protected with standard B16A and which then leads to the triggering of the line protection.
In your case, however, it sounds more as if the problem comes from the PC itself, because the power strip has already been replaced and the problem still exists if I understand it correctly.
You could try what it looks like in another circuit. Find a socket that is not protected by the same miniature circuit breaker or automatic circuit breaker and see if the problem still exists at the socket, it may also be that the problem already lies with the socket itself, which is why there's always an overcurrent or short-circuit current comes when the computer is plugged in and switched on.
If the fault still exists at another socket, it may well be that the fault is in the computer. In that case, the next source of error would be to check. If necessary, simply use a different power supply.
If the fault is in the electrical installation, do not start looking for it yourself, because there's a risk to life! Low voltage is often underestimated by laypeople.
Either way. If it is really the line protection and not the RCD that flies every time, then it is definitely an overload or a short circuit. An overload can also result from insulation faults in the line. Hence the hint that an electrician should look at this.
However, the FI circuit breaker flies, you will notice that not only the affected circuit is switched off but, depending on the installation, a large part or even everything is voltage-free.
In this case, it is always a fault current, this is very common in devices, contacts may have loosened internally, which is why the grounded housing is under voltage, causing a current to flow to earth and therefore a fault current to flow to the fault current protection trigger brings.
